Published May 14, 1993
| public
Journal Article
Beach Cusps as Self-Organized Patterns
- Creators
- Werner, B. T.
- Fink, T. M.
Abstract
Computer simulations of flow and sediment transport in the swash zone on a beach demonstrate that a model that couples local flow acceleration and alongshore surface gradient is sufficient to produce uniformly spaced beach cusps. The characteristics of the simulated cusps and the conditions under which they form are in reasonable agreement with observations of natural cusps. The self-organization mechanism in the model is incompatible with an accepted model in which standing alongshore waves drive the regular pattern of erosion and deposition that gives rise to beach cusps. Because the models make similar predictions, it is concluded that currently available observational data are insufficient for discrimination between them.
Additional Information
© 1993 American Association for the Advancement of Science. Received 12 November 1992; accepted 10 February 1993. We thank R. T. Guza for discussions and for reviewing the manuscript. S. A. Herndon rendered Fig. 2, and T. A. Tombrello facilitated our collaboration. The Office of Naval Research, Coastal Sciences [N00014-92-J-1095]; the Mellon Foundation; and the Division of Physics, Mathematics and Astronomy, California Institute of Technology, provided support.Additional details
- Eprint ID
- 52554
- Resolver ID
- CaltechAUTHORS:20141210-131058241
- N00014-92-J-1095
- Office of Naval Research (ONR)
- Andrew W. Mellon Foundation
- Caltech Division of Physics, Mathematics and Astronomy
- Created
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2014-12-10Created from EPrint's datestamp field
- Updated
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2021-11-10Created from EPrint's last_modified field